Madras Nalla Madras...

If you are from Chennai, you should know that August 22 is Madras Day. (Yeah ok, this post may be tad bit late... but oh well!) and MADRAS WEEK is celebrated from August 21 to 28, this year. Year before last we (read The Chennai Photowalk club) had a photo exhibition at Mylapore and last year at Odyssey, Adyar. Go take a look, they still have the photographs displayed on the staircase-sidewall. Brownie points to those who recognize my name and my photograph. This year, though we don't have any exhibition, the regular photo walks are on... More details here.

Me being me, thought I would do a post on two things I love the most, apart from photography - Chennai and Food, though not in that order always. Ask any Amit about what comes to his mind if you say Chennai, he would promptly say Idli/Dosa. Ok some may mention the heat and the sweat, but its raining hippos and rhinos now, so IN YOUR FACE AMIT!! :-D

Not to be called an amateur blogger, I talked to couple of old citizens of Chennai to gain a little inside knowledge about the cuisine of Chennai. I got many a dreamy eyed glazed expressions and a mention of a special Madras Curry. Now, I have no clue nor have I never heard of it before. Goaded further, one 60 year old paati made her daughter-in-law make the curry for me while she gave a steady stream of instructions.

Several konjam molaga podi podu - Nalla idichi podu - illa illa ippo illa, Kari vendha apram thaan sekkanum - innum konjam molaga podi podu - Kari vendrucha paaru- molaga podi potiya?? laters, I was served with a steaming bowl of Mutton curry over white rice. Did I mention the several instructions about molaga podi aka Chilli Powder?? Yes, the curry is so hot, that you won't get out of a swimming pool for the rest of the day and not to mention the adventure at the loo the next morning. So no wonder, no one makes this Madras curry anymore or its absence on the Chennai hotel menus.

Anyway, moving on, the other dishes which the paatis told me were our good old Idli, Dosai, Medu Vadai, Masala Vadai, Keerai Vadai, and ofcourse Filter Kaapi. Besh besh, romba nalla irukku.  between, this ad will whoop ass any surya-jothika-bru-coffee combination


Filter Kaapi is best had in a dabara tumbler with one third of the coffee in the tumbler and the rest in dabara. The suuurrr aka slurp sound will cool down any hot kaapi. The darker the kaapi, the better. Give any mama or maami a lighter kaapi, you will be met with scornful eyes and will be put on never-to-invite-to-any-home-functions list.

The best kaapi, I have had is at this maami's house where she served me with a tumbler of kaapi made from  Indian ‘monsoon’ beans. The Indian Monsoon is named thus as the beans are exposed to rains and winds. This makes them pale,swell and gain a unique, strong flavour. It reminds you of earth, rain and that sweet smell when the first rain hits the earth. Mmmmmmmm...

Another coffee memory of mine is a pretty funny one and one which I had often repeated. Appa had the habit of buying ground coffee beans fresh from the then "Coffee day" stores (not the modern Cafe Coffee Days). Every evening after school, it was my job to prepare the dicotion (yeah yeah decoction) and keep it ready for him when he arrives from office. It was a pretty easy job, place the ground coffee powder on the upper part of the coffee strainer, press it down with the sieve disc, pour hot water over it, cover the upper part and wait for the magic to happen. What actually happens is the chicory sort of holds on to the hot water a little longer, letting the water extract more flavour from the coffee powder (straight kaapi paste from Wikipedia)

So anyways we are digressing. That interesting part of making dicotion was my job. I continued this pretty religiously. What I didn't know was that darling Appa had switched to ready made coffee powder which dissolves instantly in water. Please to imagine his thunderstruck face when he came home and found a pretty strong "dicotion" made from 4 tablespoons of instant coffee powder waiting for him. And with that I lost my coffee making job. :-(

on a leaving note, did you know that Srilankan Tamil name for kaapi is "Kottai Vadineer".. No? I didn't either... Go read this...

Travelling in Chennai's Autos and Share Autos

Some time back quarter life crisis came calling and I took many impulse decisions! I quit the magazine, got a new job, got new projects, scheduling workshops and such stuff. I also reduced my work hours and took a decision not to work on weekends. Realized that its simply not worth it. Also a close brush with a probable Cancer Diagnosis 2 months back helped me to take this decision. (But that's fodder for yet another post)

Before launching into the post, I am conducting a Basic Photography workshop for Hobby Photographers on 6th & 7th August, 2011 at & Studios. Details here. Interested people do attend!

Anyway coming to the post, due to my job change my daily schedule has changed immensely. I have quit taking buses and switched to autos/share autos. Mainly because of the longish commute time in bus. (auto takes half the actual time in this route). So here is my 2 cents about the terror ride aka Autos of Chennai.

From time immortal Chennai auto-drivers are known to take you for a ride quite literally. I strongly believe that these drivers have these strong notion of "7th Sense" which makes them sense how rich you are. Someone said "Dogs can smell fear". I am afraid Auto-drivers can smell urgency.  The route which I take regularly costs me around Rs. 40 (or 50, if it rains). One day I had missed an appointment and had to rush. I did my best not to show my urgency but still it cost me Rs. 120. @#$#%% The driver had a gall to ask me extra 20 bucks when I reached the destination stating mumbo-jumbo of reasons. I has in a hurry and in no mood to argue. Anyways, I just ran away and didn't pay anything more, but that's a different story.

Don't let the auto-driver know how unsure you are about the location. As far as I know, every mobile has GPRS connection now (Don't get me into GSM, EDGE, 3G and all such stuff now!) Just Google the approximate location. For example, If you have to go somewhere in Kodambakkam, Google a bit. Be confident and say you have to reach Sekhar Emporium.  If you think he is saying exorbitant price, just say "What brother?? I take that route 4 times daily. I pay only 40 rupees". Seriously, most folks relent to it :-P If you don't have a mobile or any connectivity, ask around. People ARE helpful!!

Always ask how much they are going to charge before getting into the auto. I luckily learnt this lesson in my very first week in Chennai. I was still in college and had to reach Guindy Railway station. I hired an auto without asking about the cost. Bleddy he looted Rs.70 for an otherwise 20 rupee ride. His reason, "Madam. I have driven 7 kms. 1 km is 10 rupees. Better pay up or i ll hit you". :-\ And in another instance the driver actually hit me for not giving him extra 10 bucks. :-(

No matter how much greedy they are, I have always found Chennai auto-drivers to be very helpful. (Except some, may be) I have heard cases of auto-drivers driving single woman into lonely lanes and having their way with them in Bangalore and Delhi. Have actually heard a recount of a college senior who went through such a harrowing experience but escaped, thanks to her presence of mind. She just RAN at break-neck speed!! :) But I haven't heard of such incidents in Chennai. Correct me if I am wrong. According to my personal experiences, I have always found auto-drivers very helpful and some even making sure I reach home safely, in case I am hiring an auto pretty late in night. Couple of instances I have even seen them helping with my camera gear if I am carrying any, even without asking.

To me share autos are the safe bet. Though they don't ply in all the routes, they do run in some of the busiest routes and sometimes where buses are scarce. The prices are pretty cheap. Starting from Rs.5, they highest one charges is Rs.20. And they will ply even if you are the only one onboard. Ok, may be they will dilly-dally a bit at the stops but they won't make you disastrously late.

Share autos are my safe option when I don't know the route exactly. I get on one and ask the people or the driver himself. And mostly some or the other will point me in the right direction. And most times I have the funniest conversation in these share autos. I leave you with couple of anecdotes.

Random lady: Oh god! Your lips are pink!
Me: Ummm is that a crime??
RL: Oh no. They are just umm kissable. Can I borrow your lipstick?
Me: *facepalm*
By now, the other fellow male passenger was laughing maniacally. And no, I don't use any cosmetics.  

Random guy: Nice boyfriend haan?
Me: Excuse me??
RG: Oh you are glued to your mobile since you got into the auto. Thought you are texting someone.
Me: Oh no! I am just tweeting.
RG: Oh what is that??
Me: (He looks like a software guy so...) It is like blogging. Just a shorter version of that.
RG: Aah nice. Then you should blog about this auto-ride and me!! hehehehe
Me: Yeah Rite!!

Oh wait!!!!